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The ruins of Chichen Itza are between Cancun and Merida, about 190 miles (310 km) from Akumal. It is possible to see the main structures on a day trip from Cancun, and many tour buses do just this resulting in a large influx of visitors around 10-11 am. Chichen Itza is the one of the most visited sites in the Yucatan and it can get very crowded there, so if at all possible arrive soon after the 8 am opening. This will give you time to climb the Pyramid of Kukulkan before it gets too hot, and will allow you to view the whole site from the top before the crowds swarm in. Another possibility is to leave your visit until later in the day and stay overnight nearer the site, returning in the early morning. If you really want to have a good understanding of the site, it will take a couple days to thoroughly cove the 4 square miles of ruins.
Admission charge to the ruins is around 75 pesos. The evening sound and light show costs 35 pesos (add another 25 pesos for headphones if you want to listen to the commentary in English). The show usually starts at around 8 pm, but we suggest you re-confirm the time when you arrive. Your ticket permits re-entry on the same day.
At the entrance to the site is a large visitors complex with cafeterias, restrooms, bookshops and a small museum. There are also models of the layout of the site. Note that there is a second refreshment shop with toilet facilities by the cenote.
Chichen Itza has been widely studied, and excavated and restored more than any of the other Mayan cities. Yet its history is still clouded in mystery and there are many contradicting theories and legends. It is clear that a large Mayan community thrived here between around 700 AD and 900 AD, and built most of the structure in the southern area. However, the main buildings in the central area, including the Pyramid of Kukulkan, the Temple of the Warriors and the Ball Court, are Toltec in design and influence.
The Toltec's originated from Central Mexico, and one respected theory suggests that the Toltec invaded Chichen Itza and imposed their architectural style on new constructions. Alternatively we know that the Maya traded extensively and it is possible that they were influenced by the Toltec's in their own architecture. Another more recent theory claims that Tula, capital of the Toltec's, was actually under the domination of the Maya, resulting in a transfer of style from one city to another. There are fragments of evidence to support each line of thought, but no conclusive evidence for any single theory.
Compounding the mystery are ancient legends passed down through Mayan tribes and also Toltec. According to Toltec history, in 987 AD the legendary ruler Quetzalcoatl was defeated and expelled from Tula. He was last seen leaving from the gulf coast on a raft of serpents. However in the same year, Maya stories recorded the arrival of a king named Kukulkan, the Serpent God, whose return had been expected. Kukulkan defeated the Mayan city tribes and made Chichen Itza his capital.
Towering above the other buildings at 79 feet (24 m) high, the Pyramid of Kukulkan has a structured feel about it. Two of its sides show the condition before work commenced, the other two have been completely restored. Each side had originally 91 steps, adding the platform at the top as a final step there are 365 in total - one for every day of the year. During the spring and autumn equinox there is evidence that this building was linked to the Mayan interests of astronomy and the calendar. On these days the shadow of the sun playing on the staircases the illusion of a snake processing down the pyramid in the direction of the cenote. An impressive mystical site and usually there are thousands of people on the site at these times. It's quite a climb to the top, but once you're there you'll have a terrific view of the rest of the ruins. The temple at the top of the pyramid has carvings of Chac, the rain god, and Quetzalcoatl, the serpent god. As at Uxmal, this temple was built over the top of an original structure and at limited times of day (check at the entrance) you can enter the old temple via a passage under the northern stairway. Inside you'll see a sculpture of a jaguar, painted red and with jade eyes, exactly as it was discovered.
Head north-east from the Pyramid of Kukulkan to the Great Ball Court, the largest of its kind in the Maya world. There are eight other much smaller ball courts at Chichen Itza and more in other Mayan cities, but this one apparently was deliberately built on much larger scale than any others. The length of the playing field here is 40 ft (135 m) and two 25 ft (8 m) high walls run alongside the field. The game itself involved two teams and the object was to knock the ball through one of the stone hoops on the walls of the court. They were only able to hit the ball with elbows, wrists or hips. It is thought that either the winners were sacrificed honorably, or the losers were sacrificed - observe the carvings at the site.
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